Sunday, January 13, 2008

Boxing Day @ the Pass!

26th Dec 2007
High Camp --> Mukinath

We left the High Camp at around 7am, whilst most trekkers left at 615am. It was a slippery and icey, snowy climb with some bits of the paths being narrow and laced with treacherous sheets of ice (usually not so obvious). Coupled with the onset of Altitude Moutain Sickness (AMS), this very path had caused many porters/trekkers to falther as they made their ascent. YC had difficulty on his way up due to a headache, which i sporadically experienced at the back of my head too. Our ever ready Porter, Ramchamdra had reached the Thorong La Pass (5416m) quickly, and swiftly came climing down, sans bags, to our rescue. He supported us as we struggled our way up. I was so worried about how we were progressing to feel the euphoria when we finally reached the "impassable"!

They say unless you are a mountaineer, one will probably never reach as high an altitude in one's life again. It is the equivalent of 1 1/2 Mt Cooks. The view, well, is that of 2 peaks rising up from the saddle of the Pass. To the North is Yakawa Kang (6482m), and to the south, Khatung Kang (6488m). After taking some photos, we began our descent. Halfway downwards, we could see Dhaulagiri (8167m, World's 7th highest peak). We stopped at a teahouse with instant noodles, and not long, the American and his 3 kids came exclaiming to our stopping point, that they have made it past the Pass as well! Congratulations!

[Oh, which reminded me that we were meant to set out with 2 Australians (who lived in Switzerland for 3 1/2 yrs. Lady is a vet, gent's a PHD student in Biochemistry), but they managed to overtake us along the way. ]

As we descended upon Mukinath, I reaslied it houses one of the most enchanting scenaries with its charming brown mountains surrounding the town. It came at a price. It was a long long walk to this brown town and was one of the most tiring days of my trek so far. We reached at around 330pm and walked to the end of Lo Mustang. Beyond it, towering mountains framed both ends of the valley, the meandering river disappearing into the shadows of Upper Mustang. The Upper Mustang area was a protected area with the oldest of monastaries, and few tea houses. Tourists were prohibited, unless they had Entry Permits, which were pricey.

The walled temple complex of Mukinath has been attracting pilgrims, both Hindu and Buddhist, for centuries. The King comes to this Monastry to pray. There is a helipad here so that he and other rich devotees visit. There are Hindu God structures co-existing within the temple, and this does not worry Nepali Buddhists, with Nepal having a unique mix-and-match approach to religion. Their Courtyard of 108 brass water sprouts stands in the centre of the complex. To receive blessing, just put out your right hand to receive the Holy Water, then touch your mouth and hair with the scoop of water.

Settled down at North Pole Hotel, with hot shower and has a rooftop and whose owner also sold
us expired TANG! But since it tasted good, we were not affected.

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