Saturday, January 26, 2008

The Week Ahead

The weeks since i came back flew by so quickly.
It has been 2 and a half weeks since i came back from Nepal.
The past week had been pretty interesting, need to ponder about lots.
Monday - Standby for M Bank, dinner @ Lei Garden with Atz, Cin & Cl, work out sales rivalry, and decorum.
Tuesday - DS Training (Think about o/s questions)
Wednesday - China Client Research & RMDS Setup (Think about role, commission, and self confidence), Gym
Thursday - Jamie & D Bank, drinks @ Tivo, Corn-pork soup, Antz on phone
Friday - EurUSD Swaps points for Tim, Visit to C Bank, Lunch @ Wagyu's with M, J, C and myself, CNY Fwds Test, EFG's DB, Dinner @ Hunan with Yilian

Friday, January 18, 2008

Hot Water!

29 Dec 2007
Ghasa --> Tatopani (literally means "Hot Water")

We set off from Golden Inn Hotel @ 830am by foot to Tatopani. At 1230am, our sore feet prompted us to seek refuge in River Side Lodge. We were told to watch out for a red flower garden which made great apple crumble. That was partly why we stopped over - we thought we say a red flower garden! It was not a good place to have lunch, and identified the wrong cafe. We enjoyed Orange juice as we were surrounded by Orange orchards here. After a merely satisfying lunch, we continued to walk.

At Tatopani, we stayed at the Old Masala. Lovely place, with lovely food. We ordered tomato soup, hot chocolate, fried butter chicken rice, egg, chocolate cake. Yumm. Dont't be surprised, they sold Space Bread in the area.

Ghasa from Jomsom

28 Dec 2007

Stayed @ Golden Inn, owned by an Indian family. Attached bathrooms too. Met with an Australian elderly couple - Marianne & Simon. They were hilarious, especially the lady! They say fireworks are best in Sydney on New Year's eve. From them i started learning to order alternative dishes to Dal Baht such as soups, salads, desserts, hot chocolate & juice!

We reached Ghasa in pretty bad shape, toes aching and all due to the long journey of approximately 13km! Reached at about 430pm or so. Enroute to Ghasa, we walked the sea route with lotsa pebbles and bypassed Larjung and LETE! Lete was so beautiful! Brown hills on one side, and snow capped mountains on the other! Absolutely magical! It is one of the most gorgeous places we have come across!

Thursday, January 17, 2008

Windy blew my face off!

27 Dec 2006
Mukinath --> Kagbeni --> Jomsom

Walking this section of the trail is another worldly experience. The landscape is barren, the sun is very hot and powerful wind blows from the South. They were so strong that they almost knocked me over. Sometimes it turns and blows in the other direction. The Kali Gandaki river bed is about a km wide but the water flows in several separate streams.

We had tea in the Shangrila, a rather cosy place, with egg noodle soup and pudding. Visited the local Gompa (local monastry, for entry fee Rps500), and had an interesting glimpse of the 500 year old monastry, which houses a police post and nuns. This ancient building houses old Tibetian/Buddhist tapestries that were badly decomposed by the sun. Nevertheless, the godly and scary figures up on the walls and pedestals were spectacular, by virtue of their history, significance, and age.

I thought Jomson was an extrememly clean and well-organized town! Can't remember which hotel we stayed in, but it had a very nice setup where the rooms are set around a sunny courtyard & dining area, protected from the strong winds. Had our first taste of chicken (bryani) for dinner, apple brandy for dessert, and a Swede Lebanese couple for company.

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Boxing Day @ the Pass!

26th Dec 2007
High Camp --> Mukinath

We left the High Camp at around 7am, whilst most trekkers left at 615am. It was a slippery and icey, snowy climb with some bits of the paths being narrow and laced with treacherous sheets of ice (usually not so obvious). Coupled with the onset of Altitude Moutain Sickness (AMS), this very path had caused many porters/trekkers to falther as they made their ascent. YC had difficulty on his way up due to a headache, which i sporadically experienced at the back of my head too. Our ever ready Porter, Ramchamdra had reached the Thorong La Pass (5416m) quickly, and swiftly came climing down, sans bags, to our rescue. He supported us as we struggled our way up. I was so worried about how we were progressing to feel the euphoria when we finally reached the "impassable"!

They say unless you are a mountaineer, one will probably never reach as high an altitude in one's life again. It is the equivalent of 1 1/2 Mt Cooks. The view, well, is that of 2 peaks rising up from the saddle of the Pass. To the North is Yakawa Kang (6482m), and to the south, Khatung Kang (6488m). After taking some photos, we began our descent. Halfway downwards, we could see Dhaulagiri (8167m, World's 7th highest peak). We stopped at a teahouse with instant noodles, and not long, the American and his 3 kids came exclaiming to our stopping point, that they have made it past the Pass as well! Congratulations!

[Oh, which reminded me that we were meant to set out with 2 Australians (who lived in Switzerland for 3 1/2 yrs. Lady is a vet, gent's a PHD student in Biochemistry), but they managed to overtake us along the way. ]

As we descended upon Mukinath, I reaslied it houses one of the most enchanting scenaries with its charming brown mountains surrounding the town. It came at a price. It was a long long walk to this brown town and was one of the most tiring days of my trek so far. We reached at around 330pm and walked to the end of Lo Mustang. Beyond it, towering mountains framed both ends of the valley, the meandering river disappearing into the shadows of Upper Mustang. The Upper Mustang area was a protected area with the oldest of monastaries, and few tea houses. Tourists were prohibited, unless they had Entry Permits, which were pricey.

The walled temple complex of Mukinath has been attracting pilgrims, both Hindu and Buddhist, for centuries. The King comes to this Monastry to pray. There is a helipad here so that he and other rich devotees visit. There are Hindu God structures co-existing within the temple, and this does not worry Nepali Buddhists, with Nepal having a unique mix-and-match approach to religion. Their Courtyard of 108 brass water sprouts stands in the centre of the complex. To receive blessing, just put out your right hand to receive the Holy Water, then touch your mouth and hair with the scoop of water.

Settled down at North Pole Hotel, with hot shower and has a rooftop and whose owner also sold
us expired TANG! But since it tasted good, we were not affected.

"See you soon in Nepal"

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Himalayan Glacier Trekking
Date: Nov 5, 2007 6:56 PM

Duration: 23 days
Maximum Elevation: 5416m
Grade: Medium / Hard

Outline Itinerary:
Day 01 Kathmandu (15th Dec)
Himalayan Glacier trekking (HGT) representative will greet you at Tribhuvan International Airport and get you back to your Kathmandu hotel. We will gather for a pre-trek briefing.

Day 02 Kathmandu to Besisahar (16th Dec)
Early morning start to make the bus journey around 8 hours to Besisahar (820m), the starting point of the trek. Your adventure begins! Passing through many small villages on the way will fascinate you with snippets of everyday living in these lowland villages.

Day 03 Besisahar to Bahundanda (17th Dec)
Your first day's walk involves crossing a few suspension bridges, waterfalls, generally the trail drops gently uphill sections, crosswise rice paddies and subtropical forest. You will walk through the Gurung village of Khudi. Going on the way you will see fine views of Himalchuli and Nagadi Chuli. You eventually ascend to Bahundanda (1310m) know as "Hills of Brahmans" for the night.
Day 04 Bahundanda to Chamje (18th Dec)
Trek through amphitheatre-shaped rice terraces, along a steep vertical cliff, lush forests, and some culturally intriguing villages. Spend the night at Chamje at 1430m.

Day 05 Chamje to Dharapani (19th Dec)
The rocky trail follows the Marsyangdi steadily uphill to Tal valley. Today you enter the Manang district after passing fields of corn, barley, and potatoes then through forests of bamboo and Rhododendrons. The trail continues to Dharapani, where you spend the night at 1920m, the first of many villages you will encounter with typical Tibetan architecture.

Day 06 Dharapani to Chame (20th Dec)
Today you will negotiate a few steps often rough and rocky-forested ridges, along with several landslides on route, remember to look up though, as you will receive some sensational views of major Himalayan peaks. Your destination for the night is Chame at 2,630m. , is the headquarters of Manang district

Day 07 Chame to Pisang (21st Dec)
A narrow steep path through a very dense forest will bring you to the dramatic curved rock face, rising 1500m from the river. As the trail opens up you will be surrounded by Himalayan Peaks all the way to Pisang, at 3190m.

Day 08 Pisang to Manang (22nd Dec)
Enter the upper Manang region, where the rainfall has much lower effect of the monsoon by the Annapurna range. You will notice more contrast with the landscape and vegetation; the cold barren climate creates a much harsher environment. This area is a fascinating mix of barren cliffs and exotic rock formations in contrast to the snow covered Himalayan peaks. From Pisang, take the northern route via upper Pisang or Ghyaru, through there you'll have fantastic views of Annapurna. Before you arrive in Manang (3570m) on the way you will pass the picturesque but partially hidden village of Bryaga

Day 09 Manang village (23rd Dec)
Rest day in Manang. The day is necessary for acclimatization. The village itself is fascinating; there are also some spectacular side trips not far off. The view of Gangapurna Glacier and lake below the icefall is terrific. It's best to gain altitude during day, returning to Manang to sleep.

Day 10 Manang to Yak Kharka (24th Dec)
Start the 2000m ascents up to the Throng La Pass. Today is a short hike up to Yak Kharka, a small settlement set at 4090m. Gradual ascent is the key to avoiding altitude problems.

Day 11 Yak Kharka to High Camp (25th Dec)
Make your way to the foot of the pass, Throng Phedi (4420m). A small although busy settlement catering to the needs of a multitude of trekkers and climbers that use this point as a base camp

Day 12 High Camp to Muktinath (26th Dec)
Across Throng La pass 5,416m., an early start is important in order to cope with the long day over the pass. Challenging, however very rewarding. Crossing this infamous pass will take you into a world beyond reality. It is truly one of life's magical moments continuing descend to Muktinath at 3800m which is one of the famous pilgrimages place in Nepal. You'll see good combination between two different religions.

Day 13 Muktinath to Jomsom (27th Dec)
The country today is quite fantastic as you trek along a plateau above the Kali Gandaki, the world's deepest gorge. Similar to Tibet the landscape is wild and barren, at times you will feel completely isolated, it is almost erie, giving you an out of this world experience. Descend further to a more comfortable elevation and temperature; it is extraordinary how the landscape changes in days walk. Spend the night at Jomsom 2720m.

Day 14 Jomson to Ghasa (28th Dec)
Follow the bank of the holy river. You will see massive view of Dhaulagari Glacier, Nilgiri. Tukuche is one of the most important Thakali villages, once a meeting place for traders from Tibet. Hike through the Kali Gandaki valley to Ghasa (2530m).

Day 15 Ghasa to Tatopani (29th Dec)
Emerge back into subtropical forests, lush with vegetation. Villages today are more frequent; enjoy observing the everyday lives of the local village people. Pass through by the deepest gorge. Stay the night at Tatopani (1200m) and relax in the hot springs.

Day 16 Tatopani to Sikha (30th Dec)
After short walk you will leave Kaligandaki River and the trail ascending to Sikha village (1980m.) a large village of chetri and bramins peoples.

Day 17 Sikha to Ghorepani (31st Dec)
A steep climbing and gently up to Ghorepani (2850m) today. You will stay here the night in order to make the climb up to Poon Hill early in the morning. From this point you receive spectacular unobstructed views of the Himalayan.

Day 18 Ghorepani/Poon Hill to Tirkhedhunga to Nayapul to Pokhara (1st Jan 08)
Early in the morning trek to Poon hill where one may witness the sunrise for a lifetime memory. From Poon hill one can view over 30 white-capped peaks, the whole Annapurna range. Many people talk about having a life changing experience after watching the sunrise over the panorama of the Himalayas. Then, walk through the forest filled with flowers (in the spring). Continue the downhill trek to Tirkhedhunga (1557m), through the bank of the river and reach the point (Birethanti) where, possibly lunch here. Half hour walks lead you to catch the van, and then drive to Pokhara

Day 19 Pokhara Sightseeing (2nd Jan 08)

Day 20 Pokhara to Kathmandu by bus and transfer to hotel (3rd Jan 08)

Day 21 Kathmandu Sightseeing Tour (4th Jan 08)
After having breakfast in Kathmandu, you can visit Durbar Square, Swayambhunath 'Monkey' Temple, the famous Hindu temple – Pashupatinath and the largest stupa in Nepal – Boudha.

Day 22 Dinner (5th Jan 08)
In the evening, we will arrange dinner at the local restaurant within the heart of Kathmandu.

Regards,
Naba Raj Amgai